My Eastern Adventure - part 3

This blog is about my adventures across the East.  I looked at the world map and decided to trek on a route of discovery from the north to the south, starting in the Land of the Rising Sun, Japan; and ending down under in the glorious sun baked city of Sydney, Australia.  I will travel through 7 countries over two months, including South Korea, China, Thailand, Malaysia and New Zealand. 

Some of the countries I have visited before.  However, as an avid traveller, with a passion for photography, adventure and exploration, I will be setting foot in certain places as a debutant guest with a curious mind.  This adventure to me is a case of whether curiosity did kill the cat, but this is my time to find out.

This is the continuation of my story through Thailand, Malaysia, New Zealand and Sydney...

Southern Comfort

After trodding through the lands of North East Asia, some much needed RnR was required, and I started with Thailand (www.tourismthailand.org/home) - the land of a thousand smiles (or so they say).  After enjoying the sights and sounds of Patong and Phuket Town, with brief stops at Promthep Cape and Sai Kaew beach for unrivalled sunsets, I headed out the next day to the more peaceful Ao Nang, a 3 hour drive from Patong.  Before leaving I made a quick detour to Ko Sire on the eastern shores of Ko Phuket (Ko meaning island in Thai).  Enroute the weather didn't look like it was going to be on my side, but I persevered and my insistence paid off for a spectacular sunrise that I could have missed when struggling to get out of bed at 5am! 

Sunrise at Ko Sire

Andaman sea at sunset from Karon Beach viewpoint

Sunrise fix done I headed towards Ao Nang.  When driving there from Phuket a good place to stop and relax is Sai Kaew beach, a peaceful, non-touristy beach with unspoilt white sands as far as the eye can see.  There isn't a lot to, eat or drink there except stroll and swim.  The alternative would be Mai Khao beach a few kilometres south near the Renaissance hotel.  Just after the check point on the main road in and out of Ko Phuket and before Sai Kaew beach is Phuket Gateway.  This is a good place to learn about the island, its people and region as a whole.  More information can be found at the Sirinat Tourist Information Centre at the north end of Sai Kaew beach.  Beware of the stray dogs if visiting at night as they can be abit excitable.  Also visiting at night is not recommended as there is no security or staff present.  About 1km north is Sarasin Bridge connecting Ko Phuket to mainland Thailand, and in effect continental Asia.  Little restaurants, snack bars and souvenir shops line both ends of the white clad bridge.

Word of note, most traffic heading towards Ao Nang tend to turn right onto Route 4311 south of Phang Nga - the town where Phung Chang Cave or Monkey Cave can be visitied.  However, a more interesting route is to continue through the town along Route 4 and head up into the hills, where at the pinnacle you get panoramic views of Khao Sok National Park.  Admitedly, it's not the best viewpoint, but the lack of traffic makes it one of the more peaceful ones.  Heading down from the hills the road opens up and directs you towards Krabi, Ao Nang and the southern states.  I noticed on my right hand side heading south the Krabi District Central Mosque, a white, marble clad building next to the arterial Route 4 near the turn off for the highway heading towards Krabi.  Incidentally, on Google Maps it is labelled as 'BanNongkok'.  

Eventually I arrived in Ao Nang, and the first thing I noticed was how quieter it was compared to Phuket Patong.  This certainly gave Ao Nang a more family friendly feel to it.  Also Noppharat Thara beach is not as sandy or as wide as Patong or Karon beach, but certainly less populated in comparison.  And even less noisy is Khlong Muang beach, where sunsets glisten over the karst formation horizon.  It is a little detour away from the tourist hordes if that's your thing.

Heading further south in the old days would have been risky business, but things seemed to have calmed down of late.  The town of Hat Yai doesn't really have much to offer except for shopping malls and being used as a base for exploring the far south towards the border with Malaysia.  I certainly noticed a lot more patriotism among the locals in the form of Thai flags on car windows, car bumpers or just in and around the town itself.  There wasn't any visit from the country's leaders or royal family any time in the near future, and it certainly wasn't Songkran - Thai New Year.  Perhaps something to do with issues of the recent past galvanised people to stand up to any form of aggression.  On the surface anyway the locals seemed to coexist, which was not a bad thing what so ever.

Eastern Thailand certainly creates a sense of romanticism in that the Gulf of Thailand produces some of the most stunning sunrises anywhere.  As I experienced in Ko Sire in Phuket, the beaches or khlongs in this part of the world are excellent during the early hours of the day

Northern exposure

After experiencing the southern delights of Thailand I wanted to see if the north could live upto what the south had to offer, especially for Muslim travellers.  Arriving into Chiang Mai airport my first impression was the Muslim presence was not as noticeable as down south, which was fine by me as Thailand after all is a Buddhist nation.  It made the chance for discovering even more great.  As a matter of fact the first halal eatery I found was outside Bhuping Palace, the royal palace and gardens overlooking Chiang Mai.  It was actually by chance.  Just strolling along the street of food stalls, which is quite typical in Thailand, I noticed a halal sign above this lady's stall and bingo one goal fulfilled.  The female proprietor seemed pleased to meet a fellow Muslim that I got a couple of extra portions just for good measure.  She asked me if I was Malay and I thought of saying yes to strike up a conversation and maybe embellish a little but my honesty got the better of me and truthfully told her my origins.

Further options can be found in town next to Kunnun mosque near Chang Phuak Gate or Masjid Hidayatul Islam Banhaw near Le Meridien hotel.  The best place to go is the Chiang Mai night market, where there are Malay, Turkish and Indian halal options.  Also within Anusarn market several Arab and Pakistani eateries have sprung up.  I was duly informed by a waiter at Le Spice restaurant, a Malay Bangladeshi restaurant, that there are about 5 to 6,000 Muslims in Northern Thailand.  A greater number living in the south.

Chiang Mai itself has a lot to offer culturally.  Around the city centre is the fountain clad canal.  Countless Wats (Buddhist temples), shops and cafes populate an area consisting of the Three Kings Monument and the main draw Wat Chedi Luang Worawihan with its giant laying Buddha.

Chiang Rai's claim to cultural fame comes in the form of Wat Rong Khun White Temple, and the lesser visited but equally impressive Wat Huay Plakang 9 Tier Temple, with its giant Buddha that can be seen from far and wide.  The White Temple is best seen at around 5pm onwards when the sun begins to set.  On a clear day the sun sets directly behind the temple, creating sublime reflections on the water of the dragon-like statues that surround the temple.

Chiang Rai is also a good base for visiting Mae Sai border checkpoint and Tachileik in Myanmar, but that involves getting a visa to cross the border, which in itself can be an exciting prospect by crossing off Myanmar on the bucket list.  However, as a Muslim and the plight of the Rohingya in Myanmar, crossing the border didn't appeal to me.  A better and more convenient alternative is to go Sob Ruak Golden Triangle Park, where from the viewpoint Laos and Myanmar can be seen from the Thailand side.  There are boats that can take you across the Mekong river to the other countries where you can drink snake vodka and snake blood.  The guy selling the trip seemed over keen for me to go on the boat, but considering eating carnivores and drinking alcohol is forbidden (haram) for Muslims I had to politely decline the invite.  Still it was an experience to be in the vicinity of 3 countries simultaneously.

The Two Towers

My R&R from my eastern adventure continued with a stop in Kuala Lumpur (KL), capital of Malaysia.  The up and coming cousin of its neighbour Singapore (Singapura) has its fair share of offerings.  Singapore has Orchid Road, KL has Bukit Bintang.  Singapore has its Botanical Garden, KL counters with KL Bird Park, which is in KL Botanical Garden.  Both cities have impressive skylines, great retail and restaurant scenes, and arguably are like twin capital cities.  However, having travelled to both in past trips KL certainly is the cheaper option when it comes to cost of living, shopping and eating out.

One debate I had rest my case with was which tower has the better view of KL - KL Tower (Menara KL) or Petronas Twin Towers (www.petronastwintowers.com.my).  Most travellers will recognise the iconic Petronas Towers (heavily featured in the movie Entrapment), but has it got the X factor view?  Well Petronas Towers is more modern, has a unique skybridge suspended 170 metres above the ground and is very easy to access via public transport and the Suria Mall.  However, I found Menara KL (www.menarakl.com.my) the cheaper option with unlimited time at the top to get a panoramic view of Petronas Towers and the KL skyline with its Genting Highland backdrop.  The view is best experienced at twilight.  Also Menara KL has plenty of eating options both at the base with its cultural village, and the revolving buffet restaurant at the top.

To sum up I would say Menara KL wins out - just about - when it comes to 'which view'.  Sure, Petronas Towers is iconic with its skybridge and ease of access, but Menara KL gives a panoramic view the Petronas Towers, KL and Genting Highlands, which can be chowed down at the revolving buffet restaurant, or appreciated at the observation deck for as long as necessary (or open!).

KL skyline from Menara KL

The Lands of Middle Earth

I couldn't contain my excitement about the prospect of going to a place like New Zealand (www.newzealand.com).  I kept on thinking about when I was a child and looking at a map of the world and seeing how far New Zealand was from almost anywhere.  It certainly felt that way when witnessing Ninety Mile beach for the first time from the air.  A sense of surrealism that I have reached a land so far away from my native Britain it was like I had reached the end of the world.  The last time I felt like that was arriving at Fin del Mundo near Ushuaia, Argentina about 2 or 3 years previous.

Surprise, surprise

I wasn't sure what to expect from New Zealand, or Aotearoa - Land of the Long White Cloud.  All I was aware of was the land is shared between European Caucasians of mainly British decent and the native Maori for about 200-250 years.  Its sparse population gives the country a wild edge, and it has been heavily featured in movies like King Kong, The Hobbit, and Lord of the Rings.  Well this was my chance to find out what this wild land had to offer.

Auckland surprised me to a large degree.  I was surprised how cosmopolitan it was.  The city is a nice mix of white, Maori and Polynesian people, along with many other originating from South East Asia and South Asia.  The Sky Tower (www.skycityauckland.co.nz/sky-tower) provides excellent panoramic views of the city and beyond, with the best time to go around late afternoon or sunset.  Walking over the Wynyard Crossing at Viaduct Basin you come to Karanga Plaza, where panaromic views, which are based savoured at night, are a plenty.

Auckland being the cosmopolitan melting pot that it is, it comes with its fair share of multi-ethnic cuisines.  Along the main thoroughfare of Queen Street there are plenty of options, as well as around North Wharf and Wynyard Quarter.  Halal options are fairly plentiful too.  Kebab Time/Café Midnight Express opposite the Sky Tower on Victoria Street West serves up quick bites.  Also the roughly dozen mosques doted around the city provide cheap snacks and sandwiches every Friday lunchtime after mass known as Jummah - very similar to Sunday Mass for Christians.  Fans of ethnic cuisine should head down to Food Alley on Albert Street.  Virtually every Asian cuisine can be sought in this Malaysian/Singaporean style hawker food hall set over two floors.  If there is a type of ethnic food you want from the world's largest continent it will be found here.  Not the most romantic or upmarket place, but good for convenience.

The One Ring

I didn't want to leave New Zealand without taking a reference to Middle Earth.  What other item could I take than a replica of one of the biggest movie franchises ever, and a franchise that certainly put Aotearoa on the map.  I figured a souvenir shop would be my best bet.  After searching around I found one on Wellesley Street.  After asking the oriental shop assistant if they had any rings she explained they didn't stock any and perhaps try another place.  Before I could follow her advice she proceeded to divulge into her brief life story in New Zealand and how frustrated she was at people making fun of her accent (she outlined she was from China).  My personal thoughts were why she was telling me all her grievances.  I wondered if I gave the impression i looked like a therapist or agony uncle.  I tried to reassure her her English was reasonable and in time it will get better.  After our brief encounter I left the shop and completely forgot what her recommendation was, but at that point I dare not return to ask.  After all I did have a flight to Christchurch to catch.

Christchurch

After arriving late from Auckland due to very adverse weather conditions up there, I finally got to the gateway of South Island.  And the weather had finally perked up!

Informally known as the Garden City.  Why?  Well with green squares and plazas dotted around the city and the beautiful Christchurch Botanical Garden (www.gardenstovisit.co.nz) within Hagley Park - the city's equivalent of London's Hyde Park or New York's Central Park.  The Avon river that cuts through the park and city offers opportunities to go punting - gondola riding along the river.  A taste of Venice in a far flung corner of the world.  As far as vistas go, there are no observation decks in Christchurch, but the best option to go for is the Christchurch Gondola (www.christchurchattractions.nz).  Can either take a shuttle bus from Canterbury Museum on Rolleston Avenue, or simply drive there.  Best time to go is in the morning, and if it's sunny.  The Pacific coastline, the entire city, and the Southern Alps can be seen in pure clarity with not too many hoarding crowds.

Christchurch has its fair share of both local and international cuisine.  Not as cosmopolitan as Auckland but still with a large selection.  Being a coastal city seafood options are in abundance, and more options can be found in Lytelton, and Akaroa on Banks Peninsula - which is very scenic enroute.  Halal options are plenty but scattered.  Masjid Al Noor on Deans Avenue serves up NZD1 snacks every Friday lunchtime.  Other choices include Malaysia Delights Street Food and Egyptian Kebab House in Papanui.

View of Christchurch from Christchurch Gondola

Nature at its best

You don't come to New Zealand and not appreciate the natural beauty of the place.  Mountains, valleys, rivers, fjords, beaches, plains, you name it chances are New Zealand has it.  My ambition was to visit as many locations as possible from The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings movies whilst appreciating Aotearoa's natural wonders.  Hire car in hand I wondered around South Island on potentially a one-off adventure.  My first trip was from Christchurch to Te Anua.  A long journey lay ahead for me, but with blue skies forecast and the anticipation of seeing some spectacular scenery, I wasn't going to resist.  Driving across the Canterbury Plains south of Christchurch is pleasant but loses an edge due to the excessive traffic.  The lakes areas around Tekapo, Twizel and Pukaki are breathtaking with the lakes being glacial and creating a turquoise colour on the surface.  Other lakes such as Lake Alexandrina and Lake Ohau are equally beautiful, and these are natural lakes, as opposed to Tekapo and Pukaki being created by dams.  Incidentally, Aoraki or Mount Cook can be viewed up close and personal by either trekking or from The Hathersage in Aoraki Mount Cook village.  Trekking, or as Kiwis call it 'Tramping', towards Hooker Valley and Mueller lake and Hooker lake can be done.  A good offshoot is to take the Tasman Valley Road (recently sealed/paved) to where it ends at the car park 8km from the turnoff.  From there treks can be made further along the valley by Lake Tasman, with beautiful panoramic vistas of the Tasman River Valley.

From here I continued south and passed through the gorgeous but very windy Lindis Pass, with its viewpoint at its pinnacle, before descending towards Cromwell.  From here the road turns north towards Wanaka and the West Coast, and south towards Queenstown and Dunedin.  I proceeded to venture to Queenstown, the gateway to the south and also being a popular ski resort and venue for a lot of filming for The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings trilogies.  After visiting Queenstown I just made a quick dash to Te Anau trying to ensure I made it to the hotel before the check in deadline.  

Lake Tekapo

Queenstown

There are several entry points or gateways to the far south of New Zealand - Te Anau, Invercargill, Dunedin.  But the main one due to its location is Queenstown (www.queenstownnz.co.nz).  Being only two hours from Te Anau I decided to do a day trip to the southern gateway.  

From the south my first point of call was the Hunny Shop in Garston, which sells, surprise surprise, honey.  But not just any old buzzing bee nectar.  Allowing me to sample each of their products I bought three bottles - which by the way were all organic and very local.  The shop is on SH6 near the Otago-Southland border.  From the south it's after the town of Athol and its golden gate bridges over the Mataura river.  The bridges are named so by the Athol locals due to their uncanny resemblance to the famous bridge in San Francisco.

The area itself is prime cycle country and the bridges carry the Around the Mountain Cycle Trail.  Other cycle trails include Around the Basin Cycle Trail.

After Garston the highway reaches the township of Kingston with its Flyer Steamer on the southern shores of the lightning bolt shaped Lake Wakatipu.  The other major settlements being Glenorchy and Queenstown on the top end and middle part of the lake respectively.

The road continues towards Queenstown along the stunning eastern shoreline of Lake Wakatipu, with several lookouts facing the Bayonet Peaks on the western shore.  And just south of town near Jacks Point is the turn off for the Remarkables ski area at Double Cone Peak.  From here superb panoramic views can be fully appreciated from the countless viewpoints along the road.  The last 2 or 3 kilometres though is gravel near the ski resort.

Lake Wakatipu south of Queenstown

At ground level Queenstown itself is a serene alpine town.  The surrounding area has set locations for The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings movies.  Some of the locations, the town and surrounding area can be viewed from Skyline Queenstown, a gondola from Brecon Street that takes you 450m above ground.

Queenstown

After having a bite to eat at a local Turkish joint, which incidentally is one of a handful of halal eateries in town - the others were mainly Indian restaurants dubiously claiming to serve halal options - I continued along the lake shore to Glenorchy.

Glenorchy is very peaceful in comparison to Queenstown, and as a result a good getaway from the hustle and bustle.  The road there is stunning, with the best views from Bennett Bluff Lookout.  Being at the top end of Lake Wakatipu and with the main road ending at Kinloch by encircling Puahiri Park, there is a sense of isolation about the place.  Great for picnics, camping and fishing the Glenorchy-Kinloch region helped me appreciate the great outdoors.  

Puahiri Park

The beautiful south (www.fiordland.org.nz)

I used Te Anau as my base point for my adventures around the south.  With Milford Sound and Invercargill roughly 2 hours drive it seemed like a good choice.  Te Anau itself is in a stunning setting on the shores of Lake Te Anau.  Having Manapouri only 20 minutes south of town, excursions to the more remote Doubtful Sound start from there.  Access to Doubtful Sound is only done by boat and bus from Manapouri.  Milford Sound on the other hand is more popular due to its accessibility and numerous stunning vistas along the way such as Eglington Valley, Pop's View Lookout where you can get panoramic views of The Divide.  Further along as you get closer to Milford Sound or Piopiotahi in the native tongue, more viewpoints like Gertrude Valley and the Chasm Lookout can be appreciated.  Two of the best views in my opinion are Monkey Creek and Homer Tunnel rest stop.  The latter point has almost 360 degree views of cascades, waterfalls and mountains.  Sure the tunnel is one-way so there can be traffic build up when the lights hit red, but the natural beauty of the surroundings compensates for that.  After coming through the tunnel, drivers and passengers alike are indulged in one of the most stunning road vistas this planet has to offer. In a nutshell going to Milford Sound/Piopiotahi pretty much would take up a full day simply because of all the photographic opportunities enroute.

Of course the region of Southland is not just Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound and Fjordland,  the flatter coastal regions from Dunedin to Invercargill has its charms.  Halal food options are more common place in Dunedin and Invercargill.  After not getting the chance to go to Cape Reinga, I decided on Aotorea's southern mainland point instead - Stirling Point or Kanawera, about 30kms south of Invercargill.  Not as dramatic as its northern counterpart, it still brings a sense of surrealism that you're closer to Antarctica than most of the people on the planet.  Sometimes lesser known Aurora Australis (Southern Lights) can be seen from here during the winter months.  Though they are better seen from Stewart Island, or if possible Auckland Island.  The ideal places would actually be Ushuaia or Cape Horn (Cabo de Hornos) in Argentina.

After soaking up the sea air at New Zealand's southernmost mainland point, I headed back to Te Anau but via Route 99 and a quick, very gorgeous sunset stop at McKraken's Rest, and a short stop at Clifton Suspension bridge.  The bridge stop was a short one as it was almost pitch black at that point.  Kiwi roads have no cats eyes and at night very little to no traffic, giving them a spooky feel but a sort of 'lost highway' experience!

McCracken's Rest

West is best

Alas, my last few days would be spent along New Zealand's rugged West Coast (www.westcoast.co.nz).  From Te Anau my next port of call would be Wanaka.  I decided to take the Crown Range Road out of Queenstown to get to Wanaka.  This proved valuable as the road dissects the Cardrona Valley towards the ski resort town of Cardrona.  Also near Arrowtown on Crown Range Road is Arrowtown Junction Lookout.  It's best to go there in the morning or around noon latest as the sun rises behind the photographic shot.

When I arrived in Christchurch I thought it be the only place to find halal food options.  But travelling around South Island I found this was not the case.  Invercargill, Dunedin, Queenstown all proved me gratefully wrong.  And Wanaka was no exception.  Set on the shores of Lake Wanaka (a lot of lakes in New Zealand are named after their nearest town namesake), the town was surprisingly lively and cosmopolitan.  With both Kiwi and international cuisine restaurants, there was plenty to ponder.  Even halal options were available such as Snack Shack and Kohinoor Indian restaurant on Ardmore Street.

Wanaka itself is a good base for tramping and skiing in the Treble Cone and Mount Aspiring/Tititea areas, where scenes from The Hobbit movies were produced.  Also on Lake Wanaka lies a single solitary tree called the Wanaka Tree, which during high tide has its roots submerged in the water and the rest of the tree seem floating on the surface.

After getting some RnR in Wanaka for a couple of days I continued north along the west coast via Route 6 to Greymouth.  A stunning route no doubt.  Between Wanaka and Makarora there is the beautiful but often windy Lake Hawea and the northern part of LakaWanaka.  Sandwiched between these great lakes lies The Neck - a thin isthmus where on a nice sunny day both lakes can be viewed from the roadside vantage point.  Makarora itself is set in the Makarora Valley on the edge of Mount Aspiring national park, and the roadside Makarora or Jed cafes, with their mountain cabin interior, is a welcome and pretty reststop.

Continuing north I stopped by the Blue Pools Walk - a 300m path through the undergrowth from the main road to a suspension bridge spanning a very turquoise but pretty Makarora river.  If going alone it can feel slightly spooky walking along the path, perhaps maybe or maybe not do the walk at night.

I'm a big fan of waterfalls and I have seen my fairshare of falls around the world, even hung on the edge of one (Victoria Falls/Mosi-oi-tunya comes to mind).  New Zealand doesn't have any thunderous falls like Niagara or Victoria, but it does consist of smaller, refreshing and so less dangerous falls.  Along Route 6 (Haast Pass highway) waterfalls such as Fantail, Thunder Creek and Roaring Billy can provide a cooling respite during hot summer days.

After going through Mount Aspiring national park I finally reached Haast, from where the road skims the Tasman Sea coast and heads north along the west coast.  A stunning point along this part of the route is Knights Point Lookout.  A roadside vista atop of a cliff where gorgeous sunsets can be admired, though it can get a bit crowded being next to the main road as I discovered when two busloads of tourists showed up at the same time as me.  The lookout did remind of Karon Beach Lookout in Phuket minus the fleets of fishing boats.

After the lookout the road heads into glacier country where the famous Fox and Franz Josef glaciers (www.glaciercountry.co.nz) can be found.  There aren't too many differences between the two except Franz Josef is steeper than Fox meaning it moves quicker and gives opportunities to listen to it moving.  However Fox glacier is bigger and about 2km longer, and is just about the easier one to access.  Deciding to stop at Fox glacier created a surreal moment as I was a glacier viewing debutant.  In spite of the inclement weather closing in, my eyes witnessed a spectacular site up close and personal.  I could see people walking in and around the glacier at the top and even though I am not one to shy away from a challenge time was not on my side and I had to beat the check in time deadline at my Greymouth accommodation.  That's something I noticed about Kiwi hotels - a lot of them have limited check in times, which can be inconvenient and frankly annoying.  Deadline looming, I went for a quick nature call in the portable toilets at Fox glacier car park.  I was in such a rush that I accidentally left my camera in the cabin when I came out.  As soon as I realised a Chinese girl went into the same cabin I came out of and where my camera was.  I explained my camera was in there but I got no response.  I figured maybe language was a barrier and not just the cabin door.  I got a glaring look when she came out, and fortunately for me she made a quick visit and I was reunited with my camera.  Incidentally the area is home to one of the most stunning lakes in Aotoreoa, if not the world, in the shape of Lake Matheson.  On a clear, calm day reflections of Aoraki can be seen on the laketop creating a photographer's paradise, and no filters are needed as nature does that automatically.  A real site to behold.

Camera in hand and continuing on I made a quick stop at Karora beach south of Greymouth to snap some sunsets and I made it to my accommodation with 10 minutes to spare.  After the long, incident filled trip I was hoping to chow down on some halal food but Greymouth didn't provide, but perhaps over time it will.  Instead a visit to Glowworm Dell in Hokitika was on the cards.  It's advisable to go with a torch as it is pitch black.  The caves are open 24 hours and many visitors go late night just for the experience.  Plus midnight is guaranteed darkness making spotting the worms that little bit easier.

The slow hop back

The time had come where my eastern adventure was coming to conclusion as from here the remainder of my journey would be westbound back to the UK.  Before heading back to Christchurch via Arthur's Pass (www.doc.govt.nz), I made a visit to Punakaiki or Pancake Rocks with its blowholes.  Unsure of what a blowhole was I was intrigued.  The road there travels along very rugged but beautiful coastline.  The rocks at Punakaiki are layered on top of each other and resemble pancakes, hence the name.  But my answer to what was a blowhole came to fruition when huge waves crash onto the rocks below and the spray goes upwards through the gaps in the rock, giving an impression of fumes coming out of a volcano or vent.

Arthur's Pass probably has more to offer than the route to Milford Sound.  Accessiblity to tourisity and lesser known wonders is better than its southern counterpart.  On a good day the 3 hour 244km journey can take pretty much a whole day with the number of photo opportunities along the way.  Starting from Greymouth the mountain pass is almost immediate (from Chrisitchurch it's about an hours drive before the mountain pass but equally stunning).  A good place to stop is Lake Brunner where superb reflective shots can be taken of the Otira Valley, especially from the township of Moana.

The main highlights of Arthur's Pass are:

1. Otira Viaduct lookout
2. Devil's Punchbowl waterfall
3. Arthur's Pass village
4. Waimakariri River lookout
5. Lake Pearson (Moana Rua) and refuge
6. Craigieburn Forest Park
7. Cave Stream Scenic Reserve
8. Castle Hill/Kura Tawhiti Conservation area
9. Lake Lyndon
10. Korowai - Torlesse Tussocklands Park

Getting to Devil's Punchbowl waterfall can take a certain amount of stamina as there are many steps to the top, and can get slippery when wet.  Be prepared to get a lot of spray when reaching the top!

New Zealand is popular for trekking or tramping as it is colloquially referred as, and Arthur's Pass is no exception.  Good tramping routes can be found at Craigieburn Forest Park, Cave Stream Scenic Reserve, and Korowai - Torlesse Tussocklands Park.  These are less traversed tracks so better chances of tramping in seclusion are possible.  The more popular tracks can be found in the Otira Valley between the viaduct in the north, Arthur's Pass village to the south, and Mount Rolleston and Mount Temple west and east respectively, with the memorial ode to Sir Arthur Dudley Dobson - hence the pass's name - completing 'the basin' within the park.

The Otira Valley lookout is undoubtedly the most spectacular viewpoint along the West Coast road (SH73).  But other lookouts can give it a run for its money.  Castle Hill/Kura Tawhiti Conservation area being the most accessible one, but Cave Stream Scenic Reserve, Waimakariri River lookout about 11km north of Lake Pearson, and Korowai - Torlesse Tussocklands Park at 7532 West Coast Road about 3km east of Lake Lyndon give rise to superlative panaromic views.

A good option as well, and certainly a more relaxing way to appreciate the pass, is on board the TranzAlpine train from Christchurch to Greymouth.  With its large windows and semi-glass roof it's easy to just kick back and relax and absorb the views.

Alas, after soaking in the offerings of Arthur's Pass I had to leave the Land of the Long White Cloud on a high and head west to the Land of Oz, or just Sydney on this occasion.  

G'day mate (www.australia.com)

My impression of Sydney was always fireworks exploding above a glamourous, well-lit Sydney Harbour with its famous Opera House and bridge in the foreground.  Of course as I found out shots and views like that can be taken from the peninsula consisting of Mrs Macquarie's Chair.  However, good alternative places to get shots of the bridge, Opera House, and Sydney skyline are Milsons Point and Blues Point Reserve, with Milsons Point train station being the best starting point for walking across the bridge back to Rocks Harbour, Circular Quay and Opera House.  

Sydney is a very cosmopolitan city, so I figured getting halal food shouldn't be too tricky.  There are plenty of options in the CBD and suburbs like Auburn and Harris Park, the latter having more options but the former being home to the impressive Gallipoli mosque.  The eateries and mosques are conveniently near to Auburn and Harris Park train stations.

Sydney Harbour from Mrs Macquaries Point

The Bush Capital

I was told it was not worth going to Canberra (visitcanberra.com.au) because all that's there is the government building.  My inclination was that people visit London, Paris and Berlin and go out to appreciate the respective government buildings (which by the way I feel the most photographic out of those three examples is The Reichstag in Berlin).  So why not Canberra?  As it was Friday I visited Canberra Central Mosque for Jummah.  Friday to Muslims is the equivalent to Sabbath Saturday for Jews and Sabbath Sunday for Christians.  Also I knew I could get a cheap bite to eat from the many food stalls outside the mosque every Friday.  After visiting the National Carillon on Aspen Island in Kings Park and the outstanding Parliament Building, I was duly informed that views of Canberra can be appreciated from Mount Ainslie.  Given the day was a hot cloudless one I figured why not.  The views are spectacular, and a rather insober looking youth advised me that sunsets are worth coming up to Mount Ainslie.  Due to its position I suspected sunrises would be quite amazing too.  Another lookout is Telstra Tower on Black Mountain after the Australian Natoinal Botanic Gardens, though it's slightly dated and the views are perhaps not as good or natural (Mount Ainslie is from atop of a 843m hill with no windows).  

Incidentally there are many walks and cycle paths in Canberra.  Significant sights such as the National Museum, National Library, and Gallery of Australia as well as National Portrait Gallery can all be visited within the vicinity of the Parliament Building and surrounding parks along the Molonglo river.  A lot of national places in the national capital as it were.  And that's what I noticed about Australia.  Titles of places are repeated everywhere.

With many Muslim country embassies and being home to the Australian National University, halal eateries are plentiful, especially in and around the Canberra Centre and along Lonsdale street.  One of my personal favourites was Roti House Malaysian restaurant on Marcus Clarke street.  Just the perfect casual antidote for my Malaysian cuisine cravings.

Enroute back to Sydney a good place to stop is the Weereewa lookout overlooking Lake George.  Here I contemplated why people advised me not to come to the Bush capital.  Whilst it lacks the style and sophistication of Sydney and Melbourne, it makes up in serenity.  I felt Canberra can provide a nice city escape from the hustle and bustle of Sydney.  In a way it felt like what Putrajaya is to Kuala Lumpur.

View of Canberra from Mount Ainslie

The hills are alive with the colour of blue

The Blue Mountains (www.bluemts.com.au) cannot be missed when visiting Sydney, southeast Australia for that matter.  Apart from the welltraversed touristy spots like Spooners lookout, Echo Point and Cliff View lookout, lesser known points are worth visiting, mainly along Cliff Drive after Scenic World.  Points such as Eagle Hawk, Malaita and Narrow Neck lookouts, as well as Landslide lookout opposite Cyclorama Point are less busy so giving more seclusion.  No problem if you don't have a car as these points can be effortlessly reached on foot or bicycle.

Also the base of Katoomba Falls can be accessed on foot from either Scenic World down the Furber Steps or from the Katoomba Cascasdes.  Bear in mind it's fairly steep when getting back up.

And now the end is here

Whilst waiting to board my flight back to the UK at Sydney airport, extra time allowed me to reminisce on my eastern adventure.  Quite fittingly the sun was setting on the horizon symbolising the end of my adventure.  Some memorable ups and downs along the way.  Places and people I thought I had a good grasp of understanding that turned out to be quite the opposite.  But that was quite the essence of my 'eastern adventure' - being surprised when I least expected it.  Travel is meant to broaden the mind and soul, and I felt I achieved that.  I have travelled quite extensively around the world over the years and have homed in on the skill on accepting that people and places in different parts of the world will be different to back home.  The main thing is to go with open mind and lower your expectations.  Even though it was an undertaking of eastern lands and cultures - a sort of feast of the east - I would happily repeat it in a heartbeat.  Maybe even include other countries, Indonesia and the Philippines come to mind.  I will forever and a day be grateful that I had the opportunity to experience a wide variety of contrasting cultures and be able to share these experiences with family, friends and the readers of this blog.

Quick stop to the top

As I was flying Emirates I had to check out the world's highest manmade point - The Burj Khalifa in Dubai (www.burjkhalifa.ae).  Burj Khalifa, originally named Burj Dubai, opened in 2010 and means Khalifa Tower, named after the head of the United Arab Emirates and ruler of Abu Dhabi Sheik Khalifa bin Zayed al-Nahayan.  I missed the opportunity to go up the AMC Tower in Sydney by 10 minutes, so I thought this is my last chance to get a nighttime panoramic shot of my last visited city.  Dubai did not disappoint as expected when illuminated at night.  Getting to the mall connected to the Burj Khalifa is fine from the Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall metro stop along the walkway link.  The issues started from the lack of signage and direction to get to 'To the Top' elevator, and once at the top the hordes of tourists vying to get that perfect Instagram photo can leave one somewhat frustrated.  It doesn't help when people start sitting down by the windows effectively blocking the view.  It's still possible to take a photo but not without a host of jangling heads obscuring the shot.  Also awkwardly the observation deck is 555 metres above ground, yet the building itself is 830 metres.  Even though the Burj Khalifa is currently the world's tallest building, its consecutive observation deck isn't the highest.  That feat belongs to Shanghai Tower - the world's second tallest building - with an observation deck at 561 metres.  However, both will soon be trumped by the Kingdom Tower in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, with a height of 1000m and the observation deck to stand at 634 metres.

View from Burj Khalifa observation deck

All in all though inspite of the slight difficulty getting there, the crowds and the fact that you're not as high up as you would expect, it was an experience to cross off my seemingly endless bucket list.

My Eastern Adventure - part 2

This blog is about my adventures across the East.  I looked at the world map and decided to trek on a route of discovery from the north to the south, starting in the Land of the Rising Sun, Japan; and ending down under in the glorious sun baked city of Sydney, Australia.  I will travel through 7 countries over two months, including South Korea, China, Thailand, Malaysia and New Zealand. 

Some of the countries I have visited before.  However, as an avid traveller, with a passion for photography, adventure and exploration, I will be setting foot in certain places as a debutant guest with a curious mind.  This adventure to me is a case of whether curiosity did kill the cat, but this is my time to find out.

This is the continuation of my story through South Korea, China, and Taiwan...

Finding my Seoul

Travelling through South Korea from Busan to Seoul on the KTX train made me think there was more to South Korea than meets the eye.  A good way to explore it is to board the O train or the Central Inland Sightseeing train, which will take you through some spectacular, mountainous vistas.  Perhaps give you a chance to find some hidden gems.  There are several trains that criss cross the country, all with their unique tourist trails.  One of the more famous lines is the DMZ train to the notorious Demilitarised zone between North and South Korea (www.letskorail.com).

The KTX train wasn't as glamourous or speedy as its Japanese counterpart, but it certainly was cheaper.  And that was something I immediately noticed setting foot in South Korea - prices were a lot cheaper than Japan.  Finally my wallet could get some respite.  Except the time when I arrived in Seoul train station.  The end of the line for everyone on board, so I got off the train, big luggage in hand, as normal.  As soon as I disembarked a middle aged man of short stature with a trolley came sprinting across to me, and without saying a word, grabbed my luggage and sincerely put them on the trolley.  With a hand gesture of 'follow me' I duly obliged.  At first I thought this is quite handy, but then I slowly realised this guy could be one of those 'helpers' who at the end wants a hefty tip just for carrying my stuff!  I didn't see anyone else getting help, especially the locals.  We quickly raced through Seoul train station, with its myriad of eateries and coffee shops that resembled an international airport food court.  He asked me where I was heading in broken English.  I explained I was going to Insadong, and he guided me to the metro, which I was going to do myself anyway.  He took me and my bags to the platform and low and behold asks for his tip.  Abit furious at first as I did not request the baggage handling service, but considering he took my things up and down stairs on a trolley I actually looked past the swindled service and paid up.  However, I realised I was on a metro platform without a ticket.  The gentleman said I had to go back and over the barrier to get one.  My immediate thoughts were 'why the hell didn't tell me that before getting to the platform?'.  Reluctant to go as he had my possessions with him, I had no choice but to go back and buy a ticket.  Furious and frustrated, I went to get a ticket and luckiliy I got through the barrier without any security seeing me.  Ticket in hand and very annoyed, not to mention concerned about my possessions, I went back and found the so-called helper waiting for me. 

In hindsight the service he provided wasn't actually too bad considering he carried my things from the train all the way to the metro platform, then even helped me load my luggage onto the metro train.  So all in all he did a good job in my mind and deserved his tip, though on the expensive side!

Staying in the Insadong area of Seoul meant that getting to the main areas was easy and fairly cheap.  Seoul's highlights are arguably its highest points at dusk.  Going up the N Tower (www.nseoultower.co.kr/eng) at night and making my way down whilst admiring the twinkling lights below certainly savoured in my memory banks.

View of Seoul from N Tower

View of Seoul from N Tower

Apart from savouring the sights and sounds of Seoul, one of my objectives of my eastern adventure was to help Muslim travellers.  Yearning for halal meat I ventured to look for some permissible food.  Halal for Muslims basically means what is permissible or lawful, and relates to every aspect in a Muslim's life, be it food, drink, finance, personal and family matters, law and order and so on.  The opposite is haram, meaning unlawful or not permissible.  What society considers right and wrong, Muslims say what is halal and haram.  Different words but the same meaning.

Continuing on, the main mosque I felt would be a good starting point.  Boy was it a good option.  I expected maybe one or two eateries, but an entire street?  Wow, goodness gracious me!  Pretty much the whole of Usadan-ro-10-gil, a street in the Itaewon district, left me spoilt for choice.  Eventually I settled into Moree restaurant and enjoyed a lovely bulgogi, which is thinly sliced or shredded beef marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, sugar, green onions and black pepper, and then grilled.  I had mine with plain fried rice, perfect way to end my eventful day.

On your bike

A good way to explore cities I believe is on a bicycle.  Seoul has developed the riverbanks of the Han river to comprise of a footpath and cycling track.  From Jamsil station I pursued what ended up being an almost never-ending tour to Yeouido - a 30 km roundtrip.  Might not seem long to some but as a mediocre cycling enthusiast I embarked on a journey along Seoul's largest waterway.  That said, riding along the river is highly recommended.  Also considering hiring a bike in Seoul is free (it's a government scheme), it's well worth the exertion.

There are several bicycle hire outlets in Seoul.  One of the better ones in regards to cycle availability and ease of access is the rental office opposite Lotte World Mall.  If you come out of exit 3 of Jamsil station (www.smrt.co.kr) the office is about 50 metres on the right.  I made the mistake of walking on the opposite side of the road and thinking about getting to the old location of the rental office.  Of course, varyingly every cloud has a silver lining and I had a pleasant stroll around Seokchonhosu lake within Sonpa Naru park whilst searching for the rental office.  Fortunately, the Songpa Naru park tourist office came to my rescue and the staff guided me to the new location, thus becoming the source of my embarrassment considering there was a big sign of a bicycle above the rental office!

Lotte World Mall from Sonpa Naru Park

Biking along the river you get a glimpse of Seoul life

Food for thought

As a westerner you don't come to the Far East and not experience the delicacies of the local cuisine.  As a Muslim, certain food and beverage restrictions do apply.  Far East cuisine involves a lot of seafood, so that was my first port of call.  As I discovered in the market area of Bujeon in Busan, looking for a bite to eat didn't come with many challenges, only the ever present skin rash on my foot was causing me pain to ponder.  My inquisitive mind at the time helped me find out the Korean word 'mulgogi', meaning fish.  A nice, greasy spoon takeaway serving all types of mulgogi - fried, grilled, steamed - came to my rescue and tantilised my tastebuds. 

Seoul has its fair share of fodder establishments too.  Good restaurants and bars can be found in the hubbub roughly triangular shaped region between Euljiro, Myeong-dong, and Hoehyeon.  Even the grand scale, shopping mall-like Seoul train station has plenty to offer.  For Muslims, the Itaewon area, where Seoul Central Mosque can be located, serves up plenty of halal options - both local and international dishes.  The main thoroughfare for these establishments is along Usadan-ro-10-gil.  Another recommended area to indulge your tastebuds is around the Jongno-3-ga Supya-ro (exit 5 on metro line 5), which has several stalls selling cheap snacks to keep you going.  However, to experience something more authentic, head out of exit 6 of Jongno-3-ga station on line 5 and meander through the labyrinth of gullies and alleyways of miniature establishments serving up all types of Korean BBQ.  Of course, many of them have menus in Korean, but with a little effort, or better still make a new local friend, the struggle is well worth it.

Forbidden world

A quick 2 hour hop by plane from Seoul to Beijing and I am in the land that has unequivocally rekindled its glorious past.  We live in an age where people want the past to be the present; where protectionist ideologies is the order of the day.  Donald Trump wanting to make America great again, Russia trying to rekindle its Soviet past, Erdogan attempting to reignite the Ottoman empire, and Britain going through a sense of pride and nostalgia in the shape of Brexit.  The above examples are countries attempting to regain past achievements, but China certainly has made nostalgia a reality.  With high rise buildings, shopping malls, car ownership rising exponentially, and an infrastructure program that is arguably the envy of the world.

I had visited Beijing once before, but on this occasion it was really a stopover.  I wanted to experience the Chinese bullet train (english.ctrip.com).  China's lightning-fast upgrade of its rail infrastructure has made it a rival to the Japanese Shinkansen.....or so it would seem.

However, before I climbed aboard China's latest transport sensation, I made a quick trip to the old China Central TV (CCTV) Tower (www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/beijing/cctv-tower or www.tour-beijing.com/blog/beijing-travel/how-to-visit-cctv-tower-in-Beijing) in Beijing (nearest metro station Gongzhufeng).  It's about a 15 minute walk to the tower from the station (www.ebeijing.gov.cn/feature_2/BeijingSubway).  By the time I arrived it was overcast and that is not the best time to visit.  I was duly informed to come on a clear evening, but being pressed for time I had little choice.  Across the road from the tower is Yuyuantan Park and Yuyuan Pond.  Excellent for strolling and jogging and taking a breather from the Beijing traffic air.  Of course there are plenty of 'city lungs' around Beijing such as Taoranting Park, Temple of Heaven Park - no guesses for where that is, and Qiongdao Island near the Forbidden City.  However, Yuyuan Park is less touristy and therefore one can get more privacy and space.  A good way to get from one park to another is to hire a bicycle, or better still an electric bicycle (www.bikebeijing.com/bikerental). Distances between metro stations can be great and so a good way to save time is to invest in two wheels. 

Old CCTV Tower at night

There aren't many people out there who don't like or appreciate Chinese food.  There are many options across the city, with a large ethnic mix found in parts.  A good place to sample halal options is along Wangfujing Food Street and Wangfujing Snack Street (exit C1/C2 Wangfujing metro station).  Also ethnic food samples and restaurants can be found in the Niujie Residential District served by Guang'anmen Inner metro station (exit C).  A lot of the restaurants and food markets sell snacks by the store front and are cheap and surprisingly filling.  The best places to sample western China cuisine and snacks is to go to either Xihai Gumeng Muslim shopping mall or on the bottom floor of Niujie Qingzhen Supermarket Food City, both are located on Niujie Street.  They are on the opposite side of Beijing Niujie Mosque, built in 996, and subsequently reconstructed to its current size under the Kangxi Emperor during the Qing Dynasty.  Also there are about 5 halal restaurants in Beijing South railway station that provide good quality options at reasonable prices.  I certainly thought Beijing, and perhaps China as a whole, was a homogeneous society, but after visiting the Niujie Residential District in Beijing my narrow-mindedness was made more broad.

Interior of Beijing Niujie Mosque

Anyway, onwards and upwards, and the day had arrived for me to experience China's answer to the Shinkansen.  Starting from Beijing South station, I boarded my train for Shanghai.  Even though I knew which platform to get on and where the queue was, somehow I ended up asking the ticket official if it certainly was the queue for Shanghai.  With a stern, featureless facial expression she said something at me in Mandarin.  My reply was simply, "Oh".  As I walked away to the back of the queue a couple at the front started smiling at me, probably realising that I was bamboozled by the official's response.  But I couldn't care less as I was confident I was getting on the right train, and this was confirmed when the same official stamped my ticket!

Curious to know if the Chinese bullet train was a match for its Japanese counterpart, I climbed aboard, found my seat, and figured out how I would pass the 5 and a half hour journey to Shanghai.  This being a country that banned Google and Facebook after all.  They do say that once you've tried something good everything that comes after seems second best.  This was certainly the case when travelling by rail through China.  Granted the seat was clean, train was on time, surrounded by an elderly but friendly tour group, and a sweet-faced, friendly trolley girl added to the trip's pleasantries.  The only issues for me were that the train wasn't as fast as its Japanese opposite number, and the scenery - picturesque no doubt - was as flat as a pancake.

Shanghai

If Beijing is historic, Shanghai complements with modernity.  Home to the second tallest building in the world - the Shanghai Tower at 632m - it can give cities such as New York and Singapore a run for its money.  Vibrant nightlife, superb dining options - notably The Bund and Nanjing Road - and a glitzy riverfront aka Pudong, Shanghai can certainly claim to be the Dubai of the East.

For all its glitz and glamour, Shanghai comes into its own at night.  Starting from People's Square and strolling along Nanjing Road you could be forgiven for thinking you were walking in Times Square.  Neon lights as far as the eye can see (not very far really considering how crowded the street is).  Some of it carries traffic, some of it is pedestrianised.  No doubt visitors and locals will have their favourite haunts along the way.  Being a tourist spot does come with its traps.  Hagglers and pimps strewn Nanjing Road from People's Square to The Bund.  On two or three occasions I got approached by these procurers, who are inept at spotting a visitor from a local.  Then again being brown it wasn't too difficult!  My strategy was politely say no and start walking faster.  Awkward when they are stood next to you at a crossing and being persistent, and you're waiting for the traffic to clear before moving on.

Pimps aside, walking along Nanjing Road is a pleasant experience.  And once I reached The Bund the view was spectacular.  Pudong certainly was for me one of the most breathtaking riverfronts I've seen.  A case of hashtag smiley face - #😊

There are several halal places to eat in Shanghai.  If you know the language then it's very straight forward.  If not, most restaurants have pictures of the dishes they serve either in the menu book or strewn on the wall.  It's just a case of pointing at what you want.  Good eating establishments are dotted around the city.  For example Fine Beef Noodle restaurant underneath Shenkeju hotel on Beijing West Road, Bostan on Fangbang Middle Road, or one or two options on Ninghui Road within Central Plaza near Yu Garden.  On Fridays snacks can be purchased outside mosques such as Fuyou Road mosque, and Xiao Taoyuan Qingzhensi mosque on the corner of Fuxing East Road and Henan South Road.

The Shanghai Tower

The Bund at sunset

Nanjing Road from People's Square

Nanjing Road facing People's Square

In the nick of time

As far as infrastructure is concerned, Shanghai is up there with the best of them.  And nowhere else in the world can whisk you from the city to the airport on a Maglev train. (www.shanghai-airport-transfer.com/transportation/maglev-train) I say city but it actually starts from Longyang Road station on line 2 only.  Impressive it may be the journey only lasts 8 minutes and reaches speeds of 300 kph (the train apparently can do 414 kph).  Sure the metro (service.shmetro.com/en) can get you to the airport too for less, but it takes longer.  An instance of less on the dime, more on the time.

Guangzhou

Perhaps overshadowed by other cities like Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong, Guangzhou seems like the silent sideshow that travellers and tourists alike seem to overlook.  However, hidden gems are often the ones best visiting.  Arriving at Guangzhou airport I made contact with my Airbnb host, who fortunately was available to make sure I arrived safe and sound.  Greeted by her husband at the metro stop the first thing that got me was how hot and humid the city is.  First time I had experienced such humidity on my adventure so far, but I just quietly carried on.  Formalities done and a quick dig at my host's husband's choice of football team to support - he was an Arsenal fan - I set out to experience Guangzhou's halal cuisine.  One thing I found through my trip of China was the array of predominantly Uighur restaurants dotted within Chinese cities.  Guangzhou was no exception and I found a cosy establishment selling authentic Uighur/Western Chinese cuisine - Guangzhou Nur Bostan Muslim restaurant.  The food arrived very quickly after ordering, and certainly gave my tastebuds a whizz.  The only downer being service without a smile. 

The restaurant itself is opposite the Huaisheng Mosque, which is said to date back to the time of the Prophet's uncle.  The nearest metro station is Ximenkou on line 1 (www.travelchinaguide.com/cityguides/guangdong/guangzhou/subway).  Just as a side note, the other main mosque in Guangzhou is Saad bin Abi Waqas mosque, which is conveniently opposite Yuexiu Park and its namesake metro station (line 2, exit B1).

Head for heights

One advantage Guangzhou's CBD has over other financial cities is how open planned and spacious it is.  Standing alone and aloof at 488m high at the southern end of the financial district is Canton Tower.  What the Eiffel Tower brings to Paris, Canton Tower brings to Guangzhou.  As with a lot of Chinese cities they best come to life at night.  Canton Tower glistens in an array of colours that can be witnessed far and wide. 

Starting from Linhe West station I made my way by foot through Huangpu Park and Flower City Square to Haixinsha station, dripping in perspiration from all the humidity - not a pleasant site I can assure you!  Arriving at Canton Tower it was already dusk and Guangzhou started to reveal how it can be described as an owl and not a lark.  From 488m above the view took my breathe away.

View from Level 488

Canton Tower at night

Special attention

Being so close to Hong Kong I felt I had to visit the special administrative region of Hong Kong.  Getting there was easy - a 2 hour train ride is all it takes (www.chinatrainguide.com/guangzhou-railway-station/hongkong).  However, getting a ticket was trickier than it sounds, at least I made it trickier than it should have been.  Queueing up as you normally do I got to the kiosk and requested a return ticket to Hong Kong.  Easy right?  Well not quite.  Although I hadn't realised you don't buy your return tickets in advance I was greeted with a confused looking ticket officer wondering why I wanted a return ticket.  To make matters worse I queued up at a time when everyone wanted to board the last train and I was there at the kiosk holding everyone up!  Lucky for me an Indian man who spoke both English and Cantonese explained what I wanted to do and finally I got my return ticket.  Yippee!!

Arriving at Hong Kong I checked into my hotel and immediately checked out Nathan Road, Hong Kong's answer to London's Oxford Road or New York's Fifth Avenue.  With plenty of shops and restaurants on and around Nathan Road there was plenty to choose from.

One of my ambitions on my eastern adventure was to get an aerial shot at night of every city that had an observation deck, and Hong Kong was no exception.  The best place to go for this is Victoria Peak, or sometimes dubbed 'The Peak'.  The best way to get up there is by The Peak tram.  Beginning its operation on 30th May 1888, it's by far the easiest, but not the cheapest, way to the top.  In order to save money I decided to buy a one way ticket, then walk down.  After lining up for 2 hours I finally made it to the top, with sensational views of Hong Kong and Kowloon down below.  After admiring the night time vista I could have followed the madding crowd and taken the tram back to the bottom.  However, there is a lesser known - if not cheaper - way to and from The Peak.  From the Sky Terrace follow Old Peak Road, a footpath that leads to the bottom of Victoria Peak.  Once you reach the main road, follow it round the residential tower blocks and continue until you reach Canossa Hospital.  From there take a slight right onto the downhill Albany Road.  Continue around the Botanical Gardens until you reach Glenealy.  This street will lead to Wyndham Street, then Pedder Street, and eventually Central Station.  Alternatively, from Albany Road turn right onto Upper Albert Road heading back towards the city.  About 50m on your left will be Albert Path.  Follow the staircase to Lower Albert Road and down to the Foreign Correspondents Club.  To the right of the club is a flight of stairs, which leads to Wyndham Street.

View of Hong Kong from Victoria Peak at night

The walk from Peak Tower to Central station

I, however, decided to walk through the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens.  Once on the other side head downhill towards the Peak Tram station and continue onto Garden Road, where you will find St John's Cathedral and the famous Bank of China Tower.  From here I crossed over Chater Square, where I found exit J1, J2 and J3 for Central Station (thankfully, as I was exhausted!).

As with most Asian cities, Hong Kong is beautified at night.  Kowloon is lovely from Victoria Peak, but equally impressive is the night time view of Central, Wan Chai and Causeway Bay, and The Peak, from the Kowloon side, especially from Kowloon Public Pier next to the Kowloon-Canton Clock Tower and Hong Kong Cultural Centre.

Bank of China Tower from Chater Square

Central from Kowloon Public Pier

Just a word of note, if you are looking for halal food options, the best place to go is Chungking Mansion Shopping Arcade where the options are cheap and plentiful.  Not the nicest or most romantic choices by any means, but enough food to wet your appetite.  Also on Fridays food can be bought from outside Kowloon Mosque on Nathan Road.  Another option is on the Central-Midlevel side at Jamia HK Central mosque.  It's best accessed via the Central-Midlevel escalators which start from Queens Road and end at Robinson Road - a tourist attraction in itself - with the mosque on the corner of Shelley Road and Mosque Road near the top end of the escalators.  Cheap snack foods can be purchased outside the mosque every Friday.

Exterior of Jamia HK Central Mosque

Taiwan

After returning from Hong Kong it was one last night in China ie Guangzhou.  Just a formality for me as I was curious to know what lay ahead in Taiwan (www.guidetotaipei.com).  Unsure if the territory was independent or not I was soon to find out.  As per usual mishaps were almost second nature to me on this adventure, then again it wouldn't be one if there were no mishaps.  Minor one this time.  At Guangzhou airport security staff pulled me to one side and told me my 100ml mouthwash was not allowed on carry-on luggage.  I told her the limit was 100ml, and anything higher is banned.  She would not accept my argument and confiscated my mouthwash (fortunately I already brushed my teeth, lucky me!).  Annoyed at the fact this was the second item to be seized - the first being a 100ml can of deodorant confiscated at Gimpo International in Seoul - I just left in a strop and decided it's not worth it.  Just keep calm and move on to the next destination.  Judging by her colleagues behaviour it appeared they agreed with me that the can should not have been taken off me, but I guess she was an insistent one.

Arriving in Taipei it didn't feel much different to other airports in the region.  The language appeared the same, immigration was the usual rigmarole, and I just got my baggage and headed for my accommodation.

As always more mishaps and misgivings lay in wait for me.  Confusion about which bus to catch to get to the city was no mean feat.  Asking one ticket clerk about which bus to get turned into a group of clerks surrounding me asking if I was heading to Taipei about 5 or 6 times in succession.  Someone more faint hearted would probably assume they were being mugged or harassed.  Me, however, just declared my heading and they duly informed me which bus to catch.  The bus itself was comfortable and made stops along the way to its final destination at Taipei Railway station, where one can catch all forms of public transport as well as taxis.  As it was fairly late and carrying all my luggage I decided to get a taxi.  Easy?  Not quite, not when there is a language barrier involved.  One taxi driver after another refusing to give me a lift.  Luck bestowed upon me and a helpful local translated for me and got me a taxi ride.  Thank my lucky stars as I thought I might end up sleeping rough on my first night in Taiwan, which incidentally was formerly known as Formosa and comes under the jurisdiction of China - not independent as I first thought.

Taipei 101

My ambition to capture night shots of every city with an observation deck did not stop in Hong Kong.  Taiwan's answer to the high rise observation deck is Taipei 101 - a financial tower block at 449m.  Formerly known as Taipei World Financial Center.  Perhaps not the best views in terms of looking for significant landmarks - Shanghai and Hong Kong come to mind, but still up there with the best of them.  The experience though was slightly marred when an over zealous tourist kept on interrupting a photo shoot, insisting on having the female model in one of his many selfies.  It was clear the photographer and the male and female models were getting rather annoyed with the tourist's insistence.  All in all though the price of the entrance fee was value for money and I had no regrets visiting Taiwan's highest man made point, which by the way has a typical but fashionable shopping mall at its base.

Taipei 101

On your bike...again

I was happy to find a similar cycle scheme as Seoul in Taipei.  Also the main route was virtually identical in that it followed the main river, and there are plenty of segregated cycle lanes through the city.  The only difference was in Taipei the cycle hire has to be paid for (it's free in Seoul).  This time I decided to spend more time exploring by bike.  The good thing about cycling round Taipei is the segregated cycle paths along wide boulevards.  It certainly gives a sense of safe cycling and reassurance.  Also in Taipei the riverside cycle paths go along both riverbanks, with regular rest areas along the paths.  The scheme runs a very similar system as London's bike hire scheme in that you pay as you go, and return it to any bike station.

As like Seoul, Taipei's cycle routes predominantly follow the city's waterways, giving a glimpse into Taipei life

Crescent Bridge over Tamsui river

Shoestring cuisine

Taipei has a whole array of culinary delights.  Very similar to Chinese cuisine, Taiwanese fare comes in all shapes and sizes.  I was keen to discover Taipei's halal options.  There are many vegetarian and seafood choices to be found in Taipei, notably at its night markets.  The best and largest of these is Ximending Night Market in Wanhua district (Ximen station - Bannan Line/Songshan Line, Exit 1/6).  I came across a nice little food kiosk selling halal options run by an Arab man.  For about 70 Taiwanese dollars I satisfied my tastebuds no end, and surprisingly filling despite its size.  However, exploring the rest of the market is a feast of the senses, with smells and bright lights in all directions.  Entertainment was provided when I stubbled across abit of a tussle between two food stall owners.  The best I could gather was maybe the argument was something to do with personal space, but that was just me making a guess.  The crowd started to gather for a showdown between two budding chefs, where the exchange started to get more verbally loud.  Before things got physical the police arrived and asked them to leave peacefully in opposite directions.  I dreaded to think what could have happened if the law enforcers did not arrive.  I continued touring round the market when I had a hankering for some local streetfood delights.  The place I ended up ordering from, ironically, was the kiosk of one of the angry chefs who had the bust up a couple of streets away.  Looking cool, calm and collected he gave me my order, and with a smirk on my face I gladly walked away appreciatively with my seafood snack.

Another excellent eating establishment is Halal Chinese Beef Noodle on the corner of Alley 7 and Lane 137 Yanji street.  Their beef dumplings are exceptional.  Food and service is good and friendly, and the prices are reasonable.  Other places to eat from are Royal Indonesian Food restaurant on Xinsheng South Road, next to Taipei Grand mosque and opposite Daan Park.

Inside Taipei Grand Mosque

Halal Chinese Beef Noodle restaurant. Very good halal food can be purchased here with a good atmosphere

A good option is to go to convenience stores like 7-Eleven.  Not just in Taiwan, but nearly all eastern countries I noticed convenience stores sell readymade meals that the attendants will heat for you.  Some even have seating areas.  Literally taking convenience to what it really entails.  These choices are good if you are short on time or just want a quick snack. 

It's a matter of security

As I have persistently found, no 2 airport staff members are the same.  When leaving Taipei the check in desk official for Air Asia insisted on me carrying less weight in my cabin luggage.  After transferring some things to my check in luggage he still wanted me to empty more as I was only 500g over the limit!  Much to my annoyance I duly obliged.  Even after this he wanted me to empty even more, and at this point I was about 150g over.  Fortunately by now he let it go and finally allowed me to check in.  Just another mishap I thought.

After going through security and being searched by a cute, female security guard, I felt a little sad.  At this point I was about half way through my eastern adventure.  North East Asia for me was quite the eye opener, but I was eternally grateful.  The cultures, people, food and environments might seemingly look the same, but looks can so often be deceiving.  Having travelled extensively around the world I have found each country has its own little quirks and perks, no matter how mundane that country can be on paper.  Sometimes the differences can be found amongst the similarities, and for me that was what helped me appreciate a region I thought I knew well but left me even more in depth and enriched.

To North East Asia......Arigato, Gamse and Shi shien! 😀